“Why can people become fashion designers overnight but not architects?” asked Hussein Chalayan in our interview last week (to be published in full next week). Because our industry has been cheapened and the discourse around it is not serious, was his explanation – one which I fully accept. An article I read in the Evening Standard’s “ES Magazine” last night proved that point, and then some. Fashion has sold itself short by celebrating ‘overnight’ celebrity designers and buying into (pun intended) pseudoscience.
The ES article written by Stephanie Theobald entitled “Signs of the Times” reported on fashion’s apparently growing obsession with the zodiac and astrology. Not astronomy, astrology. I have nothing against people choosing to indulge in fantasy for fun, but when it is used as a tool to define groups of people and put them in shopping categories according to star sign-based ‘personality traits’ that’s when I get incensed. Not only because they’re wrong about the traits and personal style (astrology is completely made up and is not based on any proven science) but because it further cheapens the fashion industry, especially with the bizarre suggestion that fashion designers’ work is being informed or driven by astrology and star signs.
Selfridges’ Christmas windows represent the twelve signs of the zodiac and their christmas shopping offer extends to selections based on star signs.
Selfridges Christmas windows in the theme of the zodiac
Cue my disbelief and horror, especially on seeing the Virgo selection, which is particularly bland and couldn’t be further from my personal style. No doubt it’s a successful marketing strategy (and the windows look spectacular) but the zodiac being considered anything other than fantasy grates.
The “Virgo Edit”
Notions of alchemy and recent claims that textiles and leather garments can react to brain waves are similarly fantastical and do a disservice both to science as a discipline and fashion’s strides to work with and integrate real and believable technology into design. Enough of the gimmicks.
A strange and frankly bizarre situation arose recently when during a job interview, the interviewer – a design director of a well-known mid-level fashion brand – asked me three questions about my star sign. He actually opened the interview by suggesting that it must have been difficult for me working with a well-known virgo designer at a previous consultancy job and asked how I managed the working relationship on that basis. I explained that this designer had not worked there during this period, but he proceeded to ask two more star sign-related questions. He suggested I must be a very determined person (his body language suggested difficult) with strict attention to detail (his body language this time suggesting obsessive). Suffice to say, the feedback from my agent was that the interviewer felt that he didn’t have a connection with me right from the off. Wait, was this a relationship proposal or a job interview based on the professional assessment of my skills and aptitude? As I was fully qualified (hence being invited for the interview in the first place) I have deduced my star sign was at least partly my downfall. After I hung up the call from my agent on hearing this feedback I thought to myself, “only in fashion would this happen”. Would an architect be judged based on their star sign? Would architects be categorised according to their star sign and judgements made about their character on such a flimsy basis? Doubtful.
What is the difference between Astrology and Astronomy? Broadly speaking, Astrology is a pseudoscience based on the search for human meaning in the sky. Astronomy is the scientific study of the sun, moon and stars, which means experiments are conducted based on hypotheses and then theories and if proven they are published. These proven theories are tested and the experiments recreated by other scientists in the field, meaning that the scientific community verify the proof and then do more experiments based upon that proof to expand our understanding of the universe. The key difference here is rigorous academic study and proof. Up until the 17th century astrology was studied and contributed to the development of astronomy, but scientific discoveries made after the 17th century proved that astrology’s notions of the sky having a magical effect on earth and human beings were false and therefore astronomy’s academic study ceased.
Ana Gonzalez’s Astronomy-inspired gown
If your Christmas present is from Selfridges and seems like an odd choice made arbitrarily, it’s probably because it was chosen according to your star sign, not you. Thank goodness for refunds.